Paris charms the American's soul with its comfortably congested streets, opulent monuments from an age of monarchs, and leisurely afternoons in cafés. After spending a week enjoying the tourist checklist of Notre Dame and the Louvre, what further charmed me was a rock club in the 20th Arrondissement - La Fleche d'Or.
I am not an experienced European club-goer, and my command of French is limited to "merci," so I wanted to get an early start to the evening. But Parisians get an even earlier start, as 30 minutes past doors opening, there was a line down the block to get in. Mental Note #1: Parisians actually show up for opening bands.
The night began with locals Koko von Napoo, a pleasant quartet that sang catchy English lyrics with heavy synthesizer backup. Three girls and a guy drummer bopped their way through a solid set of dance pop—nothing overly impressive, but music that set the party mood for the night.
More on La Fleche d'Or: it's built from a former train station, so stage area is wide open. There is a double sided bar towards the back and a massive soundboard that makes for tricky maneuvering to reach the bar and the cozy lounge area. The stage is open on three sides, so there's lots of front row space for the fan boys/girls to get close. A pleasant surprise was that after each band's set, a velvet red curtain enclosed the stage and hid the break down of drum kit and guitar amps. Besides the novelty of this (almost a modesty thing, as though the audience should not be exposed to the common tasks to which musicians must condescend), it turned our attention to the bar and each other. The simple act of closing off the stage, hearing unseen instruments tuning, stuck me as uniquely French.
Mental Note #2: since everyone smokes in Paris, it's easy to get to the stage between sets, when the cigarettes come calling.
The second band, by far the most popular of the night, was another local group called Revolver. Again, English lyrics with hearty French enunciation, but this time with a 60s throwback styling that evoked Kings of Convenience and Belle and Sebastian. Basically, Revolver is Paris' version of Brooklyn's This is Ivy League, less the irony. They've been playing La Fleche d'Or for a mini residency, a familiarity proven by the audience's warm welcome and willingness to sing along on choruses. .
Mental Note #3: a night of music in Paris can be cheap. Three bands for five Euros? And the ticket stub gets the first drink for free? Coat check that encourages two for one? Quick walk from the Metro? I could get used to this.
Headliners Ra Ra Riot have been making a heavy, heavy touring schedule the past two years. Their rewards: an impressive following beyond their home of Syracuse, New York, performances at SXSW, and double Daytrotter sessions. In support of their album The Rumb Line, they have been sharing stages with Vampire Weekend, Los Campesinos! and the Morning Benders, and will soon open for Death Cab for Cutie in the Spring. They came into Paris having completed dates in the UK, before heading out through America. For the amount of touring they've endured, the band was fresh. No signs of jet lag, they launched into their set with violin and cello full force. Wesley Miles' innocent voicing calls to mind your own relationships as he laments, "My bed's too big for just me." It seemed the only glitch this evening was Alexandra Lawn's monitor, as she repeatedly asked for more cello volume. A special point was the crunching bass on "A Manner to Act," as the previously calmer songs gave way to a danceable groove. Like the other bands this night, Ra Ra Riot exudes a sweetness that will take them far.
While not mentioned in my Lonely Planet guidebook, I urge the inclusion of La Fleche d'Or to your Paris itinerary. It's a place that won my heart, and made me glad to listen to live music.
Stimulate the US Economy while Ian and Beth help out our friends in Europe!
The Rhumb Line: | Ra Ra Riot - EP:
